June 9th ~ Brantôme

Weather continuing overcast. We had a chat with a nice English couple (Dorothy & Gordon) who had arrived the same time as us yesterday, and who had a nice modern van they allowed us to have a look at, which was excellent, and just the type we might get when replacing our aging (16 years) van. Headed East to Bergerac and then on to Perigueux, the Regional capital of the Perigord with its magnificent Cathedrale St-Front and the mighty Tour Mataguerre (Tower), the last bastion of the old city walls, which originally had 28 Towers and 12 portes.. The guidebooks say Perigueux should be visited on market day (Wednesday), and it was just running down when we arrived, but still a lot of atmosphere. Also explored the old quarter La Cite, once an important Gallo-Roman settlement.


After lunch in the Aire, continued North to the delightful medieval village of St-Jean-de-Cole, with its Chateau, and half timbered houses in the narrow streets around the main square. We were followed around by a very friendly cat. On to Brantôme, known as the Venice of the Perigord. The main village is an island surrounded by the river Dronne, with numerous bridges and waterfalls,and is truly charming.

We wandered round in the evening after dinner when it was quite deserted, with its medieval abbey and 11th Century belfry, the oldest in France still standing. Behind the abbey are huge caves , and troglodyte houses built in to them in places.

Stopped for a glass of wine in one of the many riverside brasseries and savoured the atmosphere. All in all, a truly memorable picturesque village, and a “must visit” for people visiting the Perigord. Also visited a large Dolmen just 50 metres from the campsite. Wifi tempermental here.