May 28th ~ Portalegre - bar carpark

Weather improved today and a busy day in prospect. We set off for one of 3 marble towns, known as such because of their access to marble for building in the most modest of homes. Arrived in Estremoz and headed for the Tourismo to get a map of the town. Walked up to the top of the town to the Pousada (State run Hotels in converted National Monuments), in this case, the Royal Palace of King Dom Dinis. We were allowed to look round the Pousada, including the Tower of the 3 Crowns, which we climbed, giving superb views over the town and surrounding countryside. Marble was everwhere , used as a basic building material.

On to Elvas, a mighty walled City together with separate garrison outside the city walls. Like Evora, it had anAquaduct bringing water to the City from over 7 km away. The walls are over 50’ thick and totally impregnable. We walked round the City, taking in all the sites, including the English cemetery for the war dead of the Napoleonic wars, which involved Portugal.

We then drove on to Campo Maior, which also had a Capela dos Ossos (bones chapel), but on a much smaller scale to Evora. We eventually found it after asking the locals, and accessed the chapel via an administrative office, presided over by a man who also took confessional communions in the nearby church. We waited while he did a confession and then visited the chapel. It was apparently built to commemorate a disaster in 1772, when a gunpowder magazine in the Castle was struck by lightening, killing 1,500 people and destroying 823 houses. Three rows of Skulls look out from the window ledge to inspect passers by.

By now it was 5.30 pm and still had to get to Portalegre to find campsite. Arrived there about 6 pm, but there was only 1 campsite sign, with no further signs . We tried several roads and alternatives before asking a policeman, who confirmed the way to the campsite, 3km North of the town on. We drove up the steep hill into the mountains, and arrived at the Orbitur site, only to find it was closed.......perhaps related to the lack of signs.

However, there was a bar opposite with a big carpark, so Jackie suggested we rough camp there if the owner agreed. They were very friendly, and understanding our predicament, said we could camp there. Two dogs eyed us with interest, although both very timid – a big Labrador and a smaller dog with a bad leg, equally friendly, but too timid to approach. We set up camp there and had supper, and went over to the bar for a few drinks to show our appreciation.

We took all our maps and guide books over and were studying them, when an old chap and the barman came over and showed great interest in our maps. We thought he was just a local piss-head , but it turned out he was the Owner of the bar, and was being friendly. He was particularly interested in Jackie , probably due to her revealing strappy top. We chatted to him and showed him our planned route and pics where we had been. As he was a bit pissed, he spilled his wine over our maps and itinerary, and the barman gave him a mop and bucket to clean it all up.

He then took us in to a side room full of trophies, cups and medals from his illustrious career as a professional footballer and athlete – see pics. He then got out a very thick photo almum and went through each pic with explanations – luckily it was only half full , or we could have been there all evening. When we came to leave, after 7 drinks and 2 drinks for them on our tab, the bill was 2.30 euros, a ridiculous amount. They said it was correct but I insisted on them having 10 euros, but only on condition that we had another drink included on the bill. We eventually got away and had a quiet and safe night in the carpark