Alhaurin El Grande

September 26th

Just a short leg to Alhaurin, arriving about 11 am, 5 days ahead of planned schedule. This was mainly due to the aborted trip to L’Avenc and because of the impending rain and storm forecasts, it made more sense to try and get to the house before the rains arrived. However the rain came with a vengeance in Denia which prevented any further sightseeing.

La Herridura

September 25th

Pressed on again, as within striking distance of our destination, although agreed too far, and stopped off at a little seaside village La Herradura , North of Nerja. Charming site again just off the beach, and we spent a pleasant afternoon and evening there. Again, another adopted cat.

Heading South

September 24th

Pressed on down into Spain as far as we could go, as continued torrential rain and driving not easy. Passing the concrete jungle of Benidorm hotels and apartments and the sea of plastic surrounding Almeria, the countryside totally given over market gardeners, producing cheap fruit and vegetables for most of Europe. We camped at a site just off the motorway at Totana, which seemed to be full of English permanent residents living in mobile homes and chalets.

Not a lot to do other than adopt another stray ~ a dog this time.

Denia

September 23rd

Drove on to Denia on the coast south of Valencia and stayed at a nice family site we had discovered 2 years ago, right on the beach. Again the weather was bad with the first rains of the season they had had since May, so flooded roads and campsite.

J pictured with one of the many waifs and strays she attracts and adopts for the evening.

Delta de l'Ebre

September 22nd

The site was near a lake where a colony of large sea birds similar to large commorants lived in trees, which we have yet to identify. We appeared to be the only people who had stayed at the site overnight, but large numbers of families had departed to the suburbs of Barcelona the previous afternoon after their weekend breaks.

On to the Delta de l’Ebre, a low lying flat area South of Barcelona, with its flooded rice paddy fields and abundant bird life. Camped on a camp site out on the delta, accessed by a flooded avenue after torrential rain that day.

Despite the rain, explored the area and beaches where we came across this unusual sight.

The Collscabra, Catalunya

September 21st

We had planned to explore the Collscabra (mountain pass of the goat) region of Catalunya, and visit a huge medieval mansion called L’Avenc, that Matthew Parris, the Times Columnist had restored with his family over a 6 year period, and featured in his book “A Castle in Spain”. We had also planned to explore the volcanic region around Olot on the way.

However, the best laid plans …….Olot was uninspiring, the campsite there was closed, and the volcanoes appeared to be just heavily wooded hills, so Plan B, we headed for Rupit near L’Avenc 1000 metres up in the Collscabra, where there was a campsite. However, this was just a weekend site and was in the process of closing Sunday afternoon when we arrived.

On to Plan C ~ we drove on to Tavertet, only 9 Km from Rupit by track, but about 20 Km along a narrow windy mountain road, with spectacular views over the river Ter, and walked around Tavertet. L’Avenc was about 4 Km along a mountain track which we were’nt sure the van would make it. As we had nowhere to camp, we abandoned our plan to visit and headed down to the valley to the town of Vic, where there was a campsite luckily open.

Salvador Dali's Port Lligat

As you see, Port Lligat and Cadaques are beautiful, and we spent the rest of the day walking round both villages.

Over border to Cadaques

September 20th

Crossed over the border into Spain and headed for the picturesque village of Cadaques and the campsite near Port Lligat where Salvador Dali lived and worked. We got there early afternoon after driving over quite high coastal mountains, the lower parts of the Pyrennes.

Collioure

We continued along the French coast to Collioure, a lovely fishing village, and then on to Port Vendre to a very crowded Aire, just managing to squeeze in to an overflow area overlooking the beach.

Carcassonne

September 18th

I have always wanted to visit the old medieval walled city of Carcassonne, surrounded by its double ring of city walls, with three kilometers of ramparts including 52 watch towers, and I was not disappointed. Difficult to describe ~ you have to go there. The pictures just give a taste of what it is like.

Spent the morning walking the inner walls, and took a restricted tour of other parts of the walls and ramparts not accessible to the general tourists, which was well worth it.

On to the coast in the afternoon, parking in another Aire at Leucante Plage.

Lot Valley

September 17th

We had planned a short leg through river gorges of the River Lot and mountains to Albi, but the low mountains proved boring and too demanding on the van. As the route from Albi to Carcassonne the next day was over higher mountains, I decided to cut back on to the Toulouse motorway, avoiding Albi and go direct to Carcassonne, gaining a day. Arrived there about 4 pm and parked up in the Aire shared with the bus station just below the City walls and ramparts.

We explored the outer walls that evening and walked around inside for awhile, orienting ourselves.

Cahors

On to Cahors, where we camped on a site out of town, but spent the evening in Cahors, visiting the famous bridge and eating out.

Rocamadour

September 16th

Drove on to Rocamadour, a town perched on a sheer cliff, and parked at L’Hospitalet at the top, getting the best views. Then walked down to La cite, the village at the bottom, and then walked up the cliff taking in the 7 churches and chapels of Les Sanctuaires. Rocamadour was an important place of pilgrimage in the middle ages.

Then walked up to the Chateau and its magnificent ramparts high over the gorge, and back to L’Hospitalet.

Lascaux & Sarlat

September 15th

On to Lascaux, Montignac in the Perigord Region, to visit a facsimile of the famous prehistoric cave paintings painted 17,000 years ago. Photography prohibited but J manged this one.

We then drove to Sarlat, with the largest collection of medieval houses in Europe, and walked round the old town.

Camped at Soulliac, the campsite beside the River Dordogne.

Oradour sur Glane

September 14th

Drove on to Oradour sur Glane, the scene of one of the worst un-reported attrocites that occurred towards the end of World War II. The entire population of the village ~ 642 men, women and children, were massacred by a troop of 200 German SS over a 3 hour period, on the afternoon of 10 June 1944. Over 330 houses, bars, restaurants, a hotel, the church , tram station and cars were set on fire. The ruins of the village stand as a memorial to that dreadful day.

Most poignant are the houses, most with a sewing machine in the ruins, and the Doctor’s car, left rusting where it was parked over 60 years ago, as he made his final house call.

The tragedy of Oradour sur Glane is that it was probably a dreadful mistake. There are several villages in the area also named Oradour, and the Germans were probably trying to crush the Resistance in another village, and through an administrative mistake, went to the wrong one.

We camped at our first Aire at Oradour sur Glane. Aires are purpose built or designated areas for campervans to stay overnight. They are usually free and provide basic amenities ~ water, sanitary disposal points and sometimes electricity. This Aire was very well appointed.

Montressor & Loches

Then on to Loches via Montresor “the most beautiful village in France” according to the guidebooks. We walked round the village and the riverside walk, which was indeed scenic, but not outstandingly so.

The Royal City of Loches was well worth visiting, with city walls and ramparts, the Keep with its Louis XI tower including the quaintly named “la salle de la question” (torture chamber) and the Royal Lodge, including the Charles VII room and Joan of Arc room (where Joan of Arc met the Dauphin in 1429).

Changed plan and camped in Loches in a nice site by the river.

Chenonceaux

September 13th

On to Chenonceaux, another of the great chateau of the Loire about 30 miles away. Chenonceaux was built at the same time as Chambord but on a much smaller scale, spanning the river Cher and retaining the moats of the former medieval castle, with magnificent formal gardens. Note the Japanese couple in the Chateau pic ~ they were taking their own wedding portfolio of pictures around the Chateau and gardens.

Blois

On to Blois with its Chateau, churches and bridge, and unusual house of magician and inventor Robert Houdin with a six-headed hydra (only 5) appearing out of windows on the hour, startling tourists. Video available. There were 4 walking tours of Blois designed to help you discover Blois which became a royal residence in 1498 under Louis XII, followed by Francois I (Chambord). We followed the Porcupine walk (Louis’ emblem) round the town houses and gardens (note C following bronze dial).

Chambord ~ Royal Chateau

September 12th

Chambord is truly spectacular both in size and design, and was commissioned by King Francis 1 in 1519. Its design resembles a medieval stronghold, with a central keep flanked by 4 huge towers, but much of its architecture comes from renaissance Italy. In the centre of the keep is the famous double spiral staircase linking the Chateau’s three floors and also supports the lantern tower surmounted by the fleur-de-lys.

The staircase comprises of two concentric spiral flights of stairs that wind independently round a hollow central column. If 2 people each take one flight (as we did), they can see each other through the openings in the central column, but will never meet. This ingenious design suggests that Leonardo da Vinci, who visited France in 1516 at the request of Francis 1, may have helped inspire the project.