After lunch, we decided to visit The Grand Bazaar, setting aside the whole afternoon. The bazaar is the largest covered market in the world with over 4,000 shops, with the owners of each standing hassling us toenter their establishment to buy a carpet, mosaic pot, lamp……. whatever they are selling. After a few hours, we had hardly covered a quarter of the bazaar, having been lured into several carpet shops, seduced by glasses of apple tea. Protesting that one does not want a carpet cuts no ice whatsoever. However, we managed to escape without buying a carpet or anything, but planned to go back a few days later.
On to the nearby Aya Sofya, the Church of the Divine Wisdom, described as Istanbul’s most famous monument. It was completedby Emporer Justinianin 537 AD as part of his effort to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. According to Lonely Planet, “the exterior maybe squat and unattractive, but the interior, with its magnificent domed ceiling, is so sublimely beautiful, that many seeing it for the first time are quite literally stunned into silence. The building is currently being restored, with scaffolding obscuring thedome, but not even this can detract from the experience of visiting one of the world’s truly great buildings”.
I have to say that we did not find Aya Sofya that beautiful, although its faded splendour and religious mosaics were well worth the visit, and the sloping tunnel to the first floor (instead of stairs was interesting, as were the views of the Blue Mosque……...but we reserve the “stunned into silence” description for the ceremonial hall of the Dolmabahce Palace……more of that later.
We visited the Mosque which was spectacular inside, with its 20,000 iznik blue tiles adorning the walls and vaulted domes, which give the Mosque its colloquial name. It is known locally as Sultan Ahmet Camii ……, andbuilt by Sultan Ahmet 1stbetween1603-17. Our pictures don’t capture the full splendour of the building, and hopefully I can get a “youtube link” for a short video. We had to take our shoes off and carry them round in a carrier bag provided, and J wore her scarf to cover her head, although it was sad that the majority of tourists didn’t bother. Click on the arrow to see the video.......
Tuesday 12th December, my 60th birthday, dawned overcast, with rain forecast most of the day. We breakfasted in the cellars of this 16th century Hotel, and J surprised me with a small cake and a musical candle. Opened my presents back in our room…….the expected boots (from Spain…..follow blog archives if interested), an unexpected pair of jeans, and a shirt from the Spanish market. All kitted out to visit the Blue Mosque.
Spent the first week back in Bristol to acclimatise ourselves and sort out J’s car. Before we knew it, it was Sunday and time to start our trip to Istanbul via Ilford and Luton. I had booked the flights thinking my sister W who lives in Ilford was quite close to LutonAirport, but she lives nearer Stanstead, and Luton is nearly 50 miles away. Nevertheless, we stuck to our plan, and drove to Ilford on Sunday afternoon, and spent a pleasant evening with W.
Had an early night and got up at 4 am to drive to LutonAirport for our 7.25 EasyJet flight to Istanbul. Although we left in good time, we only just made the flight, after having trouble finding the car park (my fault for not checking the directions, coach transfer delay, long check-in queues, very long security queues, and a long walk to the gate……total chaos ! The flight was then delayed an hour whilst the baggage of passengers who didn’t make the gate was removed…..it woud have been quicker to wait for them.
After an uneventful flight of nearly 4 hours, arrived in Istanbul, and got to our hotel located in the district of Sultanahamet via coach and taxi. Sultanahmet is the district standing right on top of the ancient Byzantine settlement. Lonely Planet describes this as “Old Istanbul”, which is a UNESCO–designated world heritage site, worthy of weeks of sightseeing in its own right.
After checking in, we went for a walk to explore , and found quickly found the Blue Mosque. Nothing prepares one for the sight of the spectacular dome and six minarets, and the loudspeakers calling the faithful to prayer 5 times each day, disturbing the pigeons each time. Click on the arrow to listen.
Awoke early and watched “That’s English” …..a programme teaching English to the Spanish which was amusing and an interesting learning resource. Popped down for breakfast of delicious bocadillos mixto, Left about 8.30 and walked to the nearby bus station, and got chatting to a chap from Brighton who had come over for a long weekend visiting his neice in Ronda.
Bus came on time at 8.55 and a very reasonable fare of 1 €. Checked in quite quickly …..both our bags 20.5 kilos right on the limit. Sat for awhile watching the planes take off and land, and then off to gate where we boarded early despite having a D priority…..plane took awhile to fill up.
Good flight passing over towns we could identify including Almogia north of Malaga and Antequerra, but then cloud until north Spanish coast . Good landing to weather of rain and wind. First shock was the £5 each single fares to the City Centre (about 8 times more than Malaga. Next was the traffic….a continuous jam into town. Got off bus and found a nice café bar and had a big fried breakfast (£12.50). Caught bus home…..another £2.50 each, making it an expensive return home.
